Fei Xu, Market Intelligence Director of AsiaCosmeLab

Next week in Barcelona celebrates one of the events and fairs more important for the cosmetic sector to world-wide level: in-Cosmetics Global. 'Next in Beauty', as a mediapartner, has been able to interview to Fei Xu, Market Intelligence Director of AsiaCosmeLab, who joins to the program of conferences of the event that will celebrate of the 28 to 30 March in the Fira Gran Via Barcelona. Talking with Fei Xu, we have been able to know more on the cosmetic market Asian, as well as the main trends in addition to the ingredients that they use .Fei XU Will give the following report: 'Demonstration of efficiency: how the Asian brands show their actions on the skin, from the products until the ingredients' in the Marketing Trends Theatre on 29 March 2023 at 12:00h.Fei Xu1. What are the main trends in dermo cosmetics that will stand out in Asia?Perhaps in line with the shift towards 'clean' and 'green' beauty, the increasing demand of product safety among consumers, and no doubt climate change, green derma has been up and coming in recent years, becoming stronger and more prevalent within the market. Green derma targets sensitive skin to soothe, calm, and stabilize the skin with botanical extracts.We've also noticed an increasing trend of Medical Devices in derma care: more and more cosmetic brands are expanding their portfolio to Medical Device-level care to answer consumer needs for safe and intensive care.A rising trend, seen particularly in Japan and Korea, is the use of medical molecules in skincare formula, whereby brands are putting molecules such as Heparinoid, Fusiderm or TECA into their derma cosmetics offerings to strengthen product efficacy and safety. 2. What are the main ingredients and active compounds demanded by Asian consumers?The market is seeing a rise in demand for high potency scientific ingredients, such as Hyaluronic Acid, peptides, retinol, (recombinant) collagen, pro-xylane, yeast (fermented ingredients), ceramide, ectoin, carnosine, and also traditional herbal-based medicinal ingredients such as Ganoderma, Rhodiola, Ginseng, Ginger, Centella Asiactica. 3. In recent months, we have seen how the strict COVID-19 measures that had been in place since the beginning of 2020 in the Asian continent, especially in China, the country where the pandemic alarm was first raised, seem to have finally relaxed. How will this new development influence the cosmetic market and consumers?Regarding the luxury sector, various studies and sources indicate that the biggest consumer of luxury will be Chinese. 4. How is the Chinese luxury sector preparing for these forecasts and what new consumption patterns are they handling? We've seen a lot more local brands targeting the expectations of local consumers, with high digitalization support from communication to retail. China's largest consumer demographic is the younger generation, and we're increasingly seeing that this group can be targeted with luxury digitalization, collaboration with local artists and designers, and consistently keeping up with the hottest local trends. 5. On the official website of AsiaCosmeLab, we see that according to Asian countries, there are certain claims that are segmented or more prevalent depending on the country. However, is there any claim that is considered universal or prevalent throughout the continent?The quest for flawless and bright skin remains a key goal for consumers. Pore-less skin comes hand in hand with this, as pore concerns are considered one of the first signs of ageing. On the other hand, there's a lot of emphasis placed on soothing inflammation, irritated, and sensitive skin. 6. In Europe, there is, so to speak, a kind of admiration for the care and cosmetics used in Asia, such as Korean cosmetics, and many brands try to be ambassadors of these beauty rituals by creating products inspired by those countries. But what are the main inputs received from European cosmetics?Premium aging care seems to be a high priority in the market, and well-loved brands such as La Prairie and Helena Rubinstein, and French derma care brands such as Avène and La Roche Posay remain highly coveted. Any brands with safe yet potent formulas and ingredients, that also give a sense of luxury through textures and fragrances prove popular with our markets.7. Is Asia also a pioneer in implementing the use of artificial intelligence in the beauty sector? What new uses are being forecasted or experienced in Asia?With advances in science and technology, experts have upped the ante in skin analysis and measurements: most recently eye bag sizes, skin resistance to aggressions, and glycation levels. Taking into consideration modern day lifestyles, external environmental factors such as atmospheric pressure can be monitored with AI in relation to sensitive and irritated skin. 8. According to AsiaCosmeLab, what is the forecast for the next few years in the Asian beauty sector? What will be the impact of Asian trends in the coming years in Europe?We expect to see more of a connection between skincare and beauty and mental health and wellbeing. Perhaps in part due to the pandemic, much more importance has been placed on true wellbeing and self-care comes in conjunction with this.In Asia, we're seeing the acceleration of in/out beauty based on traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) and regenerative beauty care. As sensitive skin is on the rise due to a range of environmental reasons, much of the industry will look to including in their products protection against allergens and pollutions. Last but not the least, the beauty device and tools will be the "best partner" of your daily skincare with many technology possibilities.

Fei Xu, Market Intelligence Director of AsiaCosmeLab

We discover which is the current situation of dermocosmetics in Asia