What aspects must be taken into account when formulating sun products?

The worry of the consumer by the adverse effects of the exhibition in the sunlight is one of the main drivers of the market of solar products all over the world. However, the consumer no longer only looks for protection and quality, but also reflexiona on the effect that have the products that uses in the environment.To the hour to formulate, can say that the solar products are of the most complicated. It is necessary to combine a high protection with a good cosmeticidad, without forgetting us of the stability of the emulsion. For a formulador, the main points of pain can resumir in these three: The integration in formula and solubilización of the solar filters, already are organic or mineral. Each typology of filter will give a different problem, by what the way to attack it also will be it. The training of a stable emulsion: an emulsion is unstable by definition, but can favour the creation of emulsions more stable using some concrete products. The ease of application on the skin: we know that the good cosmeticidad of a solar product is something looked for, worked and in what the technical departments of the cosmetic laboratories invest long. The election of the system emulsionante is important, but choose the emolientes adapted also.See how we can solve these problems.Integration of solar filters in formulaAs it is known, the solar filters can classify of generic form in organic and mineral. The organic filters need of a correct solubilización during the process of formulation of a solar product, so that the emulsion was homogénea without losing an apex of effectiveness. To favour this process, can use substances known like boosters, that will help us in this process of solubilización optimising also the cost of the formula, since they will allow to reduce the necessary quantity of necessary solar filter to reach a concrete value of SPF. Two of the cosmetic ingredients that can help us in this process are the Diethylhexyl Sebacate and the Diisopropyl Sebacate. If besides we take into account that these emolientes have a touch no graso and aterciopelado, are perfect to formulate solar products without adding too much weight to the final product. Other ingredients that are used to to use to this end are the C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, the Dibutyl Adipate or the Phenylethyl Benzoate.If we centre us in the mineral filters, his presence generates a series of problems, as for example the apparition of a white layer in the skin after the application, although bien is true that thanks to the work of the formuladores every time obtain better textures without this effect blanqueante no wished. In addition to the work of the providers of filters regarding the micronización and correct dispersion, exist some able substances to favour the introduction of the mineral filters in formula. An example is the Diethylhexyl Sebacate, that also presents can dispersante; others very used are the Dibutyl Adipate or the Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. In the case to have to formulate products waterless as for example sticks solar, can use also other emolientes with being able to dispersante like the Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, the Myristyl Lactate or the Octyldodecyl PCA.Stability of the emulsionAnother of the key phases of the formulation of solar is the election of the emulsionante, that is directly related with the stability of the emulsion. Although this step is very important in the formulation of any cream, was solar or no, well is true that in the case of the solar creams find us in front of a special situation.It is interesting to choose emulsionantes compatible with a wide rank of lipids, that in addition to joining the phase oleosa and the aqueous phase contribute something more: size of small and uniform drop and therefore greater stability, or even some extra as for example can hidratante so that the application of the solar cream turn into a more pleasant experience.They exist bases autoemulsionantes optimised that combine tensioactivos more traditional like Glyceryl Stearate and Cetearyl Alcohol with others that condition the skin like glutamates or lactilatos. The introduction of coemulsionantes like the Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate or Hydrogenated Olive Oil Stearyl Esters will contribute a greater stability to the final product.CosmeticidadIn this point, in addition to the emulsionante chosen also will influence the emolientes that enter. Some like the Diethylhexyl Sebacate can confer interesting properties, such as we have commented previously, but exist others that can give us different effects. For example, the Isoamyl Laurate will contribute can hidratante at the same time that provides a matt effect, whereas the Isononyl Isononanoate will help to create textures ultraligeras of fast absorption. Also we can add other ingredients conditioners like the extracts, for example Echinacea Purpurea Extract, or silicones, like the conocidísima Cyclopentasiloxane. Such as it can check , the formulation of solar products supposes all a challenge for the technicians of the cosmetic industry and do not exaggerate if we say that it is one of the subjects that more concern to the formulador. Thanks to the present innovation in our sector, the providers of prime matters follow launching novelties and reformulando ancient references to satisfy the demands of manufacturers and consumers, whereas the formuladores every time design products more sophisticated, simple to apply and with protection of high spectrum, combining quality and efficiency without losing of sight the sensorialidad.

What aspects must be taken into account when formulating sun products?

The importance of reaching an adequate harmony between good cosmeticity, high protection and stability of the emulsion

Carmina Alfonso Padilla

Director of Global Corporate Development en Zschimmer & Schwarz