Ageing is a natural and inevitable process that we all experience as the years go by. However, in recent times, the cosmetics industry has embraced a new trend: well-aging, an approach that focuses on healthy and preventative skin and body care, with the aim of delaying the effects of ageing and improving quality of life, as opposed to the long-established 'anti-ageing' approach. Unlike anti-ageing, which focuses on combating the signs of ageing once they have appeared, well-aging is based on healthy habits, proper nutrition and natural products to keep the complexion and body in optimal condition, in order to prevent premature signs of ageing. Well-aging products focus on the prevention and maintenance of skin health through the use of natural ingredients, antioxidants and sun protection. In addition, the well-aging trend also involves a focus on general and holistic wellness.
Well-aging takes centre stage at a Beauty Cluster innovation conference
Nuria Pagés, Technical Commercial Advisor at PhD Trials, was the protagonist of the first presentation. Pagés explained the techniques for measuring the efficacy of well-aging cosmetics. "The types of efficacy studies are divided into objective, instrumental studies and subjective studies, which involve questionnaires in which volunteers are asked about their perception". Nuria Pagés explained the different methods, processes and tools used to determine the efficacy of these products. She spoke, for example, about PRIMOS CR, useful for checking the attenuation, volume and depth of wrinkles and the latest device, AEVA: "it works in the same way as PRIMOS and the parameters that are achieved are the same and a new dynamic analysis protocol has been developed that can predict future expression lines by using the video functions of the AEVA 3D system and allows us to know which wrinkles may appear in the future and thus prevent them". The Technical Commercial Advisor of PhD Trials explained during her turn to speak. Pagés also wanted to stress the importance of the volunteers' perception when testing the efficacy of this type of cosmetic products and argued how this is measured in her company.
Secondly, Ana Callao, the Technical Director of Inquiaroma presented Epionine Bio, a natural ingredient that is extracted from the camellia oleifera and brings wellness to the skin and mind. She wanted to place special emphasis on the relationship between skin and mental wellbeing, putting on the table the holistic point of view of 'well-aging'. "Stress, anxiety and emotional state are reflected in our skin. Epionine is soothing and anti-redness, moisturising and barrier-strengthening and generates a feeling of skin comfort with pain modulation. It acts on the mind by increasing self-esteem, reducing stress and quality of life," explained Ana Callao. Backed by numerous in-vitro and ex-vivo tests, it has been shown to reduce stress in the skin and with its consumption there is a -21% reduction in the presence of cortisol. "Clinical studies have shown that it improves mental state. They have been carried out with psychologists and neurocosmetic experts on women with sensitive skin. The main conclusions that have been drawn is an improvement in comfort, which has been seen to reduce general discomfort, especially the sensation of tingling, burning, tension and itching. There was also an improvement in overall self-esteem and self-confidence by 42%. Epionine is extracted from the camellia oleifera and maintains the lipid components in their natural state".
Next, Amélie Gafari, Global Product Manager of Symrise, listed some of the claims that have increased in the skin care market, such as the glow or radiant effect of the skin. He then explained to the webinar attendees that Symrise believes that the new paradigm of skin health protection strategy is shifting towards protein protection. He pointed out that the proteome is sensitive to the exposome. The accumulation of damage leads the skin to a loss of functionality and luminosity and it is important to prevent the skin from running out of natural protein to protect skin health.
The fourth presentation of the morning was given by Núria Caturla, PhD, Chief R&D Manager of Monteloeder. On this occasion, Caturla introduced the participants to a nutricosmetic ingredient: Eternalyoung. It is an ingredient based on 4 botanical extracts, such as pomegranate and centella asiatica, that helps prevent the effects of ageing by maintaining telomere length. "Telomeres play a very important role in cellular ageing. As our cells divide, telomeres become shorter and shorter over time. When they reach a critical size, cells stop dividing and lose their ability to regenerate tissue, and this is common to all tissues in the body and is more relevant in the case of skin, which is exposed to external factors such as ultraviolet radiation or pollution," argues Dr Monteloeder, Chief R&D Manager. Clinical evaluations confirm that it improves wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, elasticity and skin function. It also reduces stress and fatigue and increases well-being, meeting the demand for holistic products with multiple benefits.
Monika Buchholz, Scientific Marketing Specialist of Vytrus Biotech, has put the full stop to today's day with his presentation The factor fotobioma: the new role of the microbiota in the fotoenvejecimiento. Buchholz has spoken on one of the active presented by the company of active of Terrassa during the last in-Cosmetics Global in Barcelona. "It is a new concept within the Well-Aging place that 80-90% of the visible signs of facial ageing are due to the sun exposure. There is a sun-microbiota-skin axis. The cutaneous microbiota is the layer most exposed to sunlight. This microbiota is able to react and interact with the solar radiation. The interaction between the solar radiation and the microbiota can have a positive or detrimental impact between the health of our skin," said Monika Buchholz. "Photobiome is the latest launch from Vytrus and represents a completely new approach to sun protection and ageing. It helps the skin's microbiota to photo-protect. It has worked with cultures of cells mother of two different plants: the pomegranate and a plant that lives in the desert arábico. A microbiota photo-protected translates into an increase in elasticity, firmness and shine of the skin", concluded the Scientific Marketing Specialist of Vytrus to close this new edition of the 'Formulation and Forum'.
In short, well-aging is transforming the cosmetics industry in Spain, and this trend is expected to continue to grow in the future as consumers seek products that help them look and feel their best as they age. Well-aging has become more popular in recent years due to a change in society's mindset. More and more people want to take care of their body and mind in a holistic way and not just focus on superficial beauty. In addition, the world's population is ageing and people are looking for ways to maintain their health and youthful appearance for longer.