Perfumery is going through a stage of profound creative and cultural transformation. The olfactory trends of recent years are articulated around 3 major characteristics:
- Reinterpretation of classic accords: Traditional notes are updated with modern touches, seeking lightness, transparency, and sophistication.
- Reinvention and emergence of new culinary profiles: Inspired by gastronomy, such as pistachio, matcha tea, or the incorporation of the fig note, providing unexpected textures and nuances.
- Influence of the global landscape: Growing influence of Middle Eastern trends, introducing oud or spice accords into the European market, which are integrated into more accessible and cosmopolitan compositions, reflecting a connection between cultures and markets.
On the other hand, traditionally, perfume was conceived as a symbol of hygiene and luxury. However, the concept of fragrance has evolved to become another tool for personal expression, emotional well-being, and sensory exploration. Concepts such as layering, shadowing and creative twist allow consumers to personalize and experiment with fragrances, combining and enhancing specific notes to create unique olfactory experiences that characterize them.
Olfactory trends
Reinterpretation of classic accords
White flowers: luminosity and transparency
One of the clearest examples of reinterpretation of classic accords is the renewed prominence of white flowers, such as tuberose, orange blossom, and jasmine. Traditionally, compositions centered on these flowers resulted in dense, opulent floral olfactory profiles, and even with slightly animalic notes.
Recent launches, however, seek greater lightness, transparency and luminosity, accompanying the sensuality of these flowers with musky, fruity or slightly woody bases that soften their intensity and bring modernity.
- Good Girl Jasmine Absolute – Carolina Herrera
- Libre L’Eau Nue – Yves Saint Laurent (centered on orange blossom)
- Audace – Rochas (tuberose, orange blossom, and raspberry)
The rise of red fruits
The notes of berries and red fruits, such as strawberry, raspberry or blackcurrant, known for providing juiciness, freshness and a vibrant sweetness to fragrances, have become one of the most visible accords in recent launches, a bet by almost all the most Prestigious brands in the market.
For years, fruity notes have been used in very sweet perfumes, often combining them with vanilla to enhance this facet, especially connecting with young consumers. However, in the most recent launches, these raw materials are being incorporated into more sophisticated compositions. Instead of focusing solely on sweetness, perfumers combine red fruits with white flowers, soft musks, and woody bases that provide greater olfactory depth.
Some recent releases include:
- Divine Couture – Jean Paul Gaultier
- Libre Berry Crush – Yves Saint Laurent
- Alien Pulp Eau de Parfum Fruitée – Mugler
- Fame In Love – Paco Rabanne
- The Bomb – Carolina Herrera
- Miutine – Miu Miu
- Audace – Rochas (tuberose, orange blossom and raspberry)
Reinvention and appearance of new culinary profiles
Oriental Vanilla
Vanilla continues to consolidate itself as one of the most influential notes within the world of perfumery. Historically associated with warmth, sensuality, and depth, and biologically associated with breast milk, subconsciously granting a memory of security and calm; this raw material brings a sweet and enveloping character that functions as a structural axis in numerous contemporary compositions.
In new launches, it is observed that vanilla moves away from excessively sweet versions to adopt a more sophisticated and textural profile. Current formulations explore creamy facets, but also ambery and floral ones, capable of bringing elegance and complexity to the fragrance.
Recent examples that reflect this evolution include:
- Libre Vanille Couture – Yves Saint Laurent
- La Vie Est Belle Vanille Nude – Lancôme
- Rare – Rare Beauty, from the brand founded by Selena Gomez, with pistachio and vanilla
Gourmand 2.0
The gourmand family is becoming one of the most influential in the global fragrance market of the last 5 years.
Traditionally associated with sweet notes like caramel or cocoa, this category has built its success on the ability to evoke feelings of pleasure, comfort, and warmth.
However, the recent development of this family points towards a more sophisticated reinterpretation that many perfumers and trend analysts describe as “gourmand 2.0”. Instead of focusing exclusively on sweetness, the new compositions seek to recreate more complex sensory experiences, inspired by culinary textures and toasted nuances that provide discovery, experience, and greater olfactory depth.
Within this evolution, the pistachio has consolidated itself as one of the most relevant emerging gourmand ingredients. Its aromatic profile combines creaminess with light toasted nuances. Furthermore, its natural affinity with dairy accords, vanilla, and soft musks makes it an especially versatile note for contemporary compositions seeking balance between indulgence and sophistication.
Recent fragrances that reflect this trend include:
- Rare – Rare Beauty, from the brand founded by Selena Gomez, with pistachio and vanilla
- Eclaire Pistache – Lattafa
- Yum Pistachio Gelato – Kayali
Contemporary Botany
Another culinary olfactory direction that has been a trend in recent years and continues to position itself as a great bet is the fig. The fig presents itself as a raw material that evokes living nature, with notes of fresh green leaf and great juiciness recalling its creamy interior, directly evoking dreamlike corners of paradisiacal islands.
Among the most recent releases that have been launched around this so refreshing note are:
- Tom Ford - Figue Érotique
- Philosykos - Diptyque
- Pure Fig – Officina delle Essenze
- Fico di Amalfi La Riserva - Acqua di Parma
- Scandal Absolu for her - Jean Paul Gaultier
- Perfect Absolute - Marc Jacobs (caramel and fig)
Also worth mentioning is the olfactory trend based on tea notes, particularly matcha tea.
This ingredient reflects the association with calm and contemplation, providing a green, slightly citrusy but bitter aroma while transmitting sensations of balance and illustrating this search for more introspective and serene perfumes.
- Memori Poudre Matcha - Kenzo
- Replica Matcha Meditation - Maison Margiela
Influence of the global landscape
Oud: luxury and mystery
The Oud, known also as “liquid gold” in the world of perfumery is a raw material traditionally widely used in the Middle East, appreciated above all for its high intensity and aromatic depth. This dark-colored resin is one of the most expensive and exclusive ingredients in the world, and brings smoky, woody, balsamic, and animalic notes to compositions.
Nevertheless, its contemporary interpretation is oriented towards more accessible compositions but which maintain its trail of luxury and mystery.
Examples of this trend include:
- Oudgasm Rose Oud – Kayali
- Oud Nacré - Giorgio Armani
- White Linen Oud Legacy - Estée Lauder
PERSONAL SIGNATURE
Many consumers seek unique fragrances that allow them to differentiate themselves and build their own olfactory identity. Many others even use a perfume for each moment of the day or mood.
The influence of social media has profoundly transformed the fragrance landscape. Platforms like TikTok, Instagram, or YouTube have given rise to global communities of perfume enthusiasts who share recommendations, reviews, and lists of viral fragrances.
This digital ecosystem has accelerated the spread of trends and has contributed to popularizing concepts such as the “perfume signature”, that is, the fragrance that defines the personal identity of the wearer.
All of this has contributed to the ways in which consumers use fragrances and the way in which perfumers design new launches also being in full evolution, giving rise to concepts such as layering, shadowing and the creative twist.
Layering is one of the most widespread practices. It consists of combining two or more perfumes, adding new olfactory layers that enrich the sensory experience, with the aim of creating a unique and personalized composition,
On the other hand, shadowing consists of reinforcing a specific note through another fragrance that contains the same accord, thus intensifying its presence within the final composition.
Finally, we find the creative twist which is the introduction by the perfumer of an unexpected element within a classic structure, such as a citrus note in an amber perfume or a nuance of white flowers like tuberose in a woody fragrance.
