Andrea Villar

Perfumery of gender and cosmetic psychology: What does mean to smell to man?

Partner Olfactived
16 of December of 2022
Save

Sure that this situation has occurred you some time: you go in to a shopping centre, arrive to the area of perfumery, and suddenly, see something that you notice interesting: A small jar, of perfume. You take it and you test it in the skin, and first off, you love the smell. Then, somebody, who works in this stand notices it and approaches to you, with a smile, but cutting; "This is the new launching of cavalier/woman", being allocated for an opposite gender to the yours. As if it had scared you the idea, leave the jar where have found it, and questions if there is some new launching inside your gender. As if what finish to do, went a sin and this perfume that has loved you, did not have to like you.

In the five years that carry of labour experience to my backs, happened me two of them very near of the cosmetic sector, specifically, in perfumery of luxury and perfumery niche and more specifically, in supervision of sales in shopping centres. And this situation that finish you to relate have lived it so much professional as personally more than once.

The retail is one of the sectors, that, to the equal that in the cosmetic sector, yes understands of gender and separates between "feminine" and "masculine". Nevertheless, this can have sense: a shirt of woman or of knight does not follow neither the same size neither pattern. The men tend to possess backs generally wider, reason whereby the sizes are bigger and straight, unlike the shirts of woman, in which we find so much in model notched like oversized.

Nevertheless, What differentiates specific there is between a scent for man and one for woman, and why there are perfumes for each gender?

Factor surprise: there is not any! (Although this, probably, already imagined it). It is a same formulation of ingredients, with the difference in that in the majority of briefings of commercial launchings the scents for man comprise citrus notes, woody and animals, whereas the ones of woman comprise notes generally fruits, floral, and bodies of character gourmand.

Here, already we would go in in the debate of psychology of the perfumery: the scents sell and transmit, through announcements and available material, states of spirit, memories and emotions. In the announcements of perfumery, find the majority of the times an enneagram of personality for all the launchings: the winner. This is somebody with character generally dominant and strong, with self-confidence, people of heroic type, smart to change the world, with a handicap that is the way to act. The woman, in spite of presenting with strength, is always delicate, feminine, elegant and slightly sensual, whereas the protagonists of announcements of masculine perfumery represent characters bravos, seducers and with wood of leader. This difference of character also sees represented in the notes, the jar and the juice of the scent.

A concrete example that shows this case to perfection is the line of "Invictus" and "Olympea", of Paco Rabanne; In the spot of Invictus we can see a warrior, with scars of battle in the skin and lines of camouflage in the face, that goes in front of a group of cameras, winner and victorious, and heaves the hands in horizontal, how if it invited to the public to challenge him. Background, a song, that quotes " No one man should have all that power"- " Any man would have to have so much can". Blue grey/juice dark, where predominate the leaves of laurel, the grey amber and the wood of guaiac, dancing in a jar with form of trophy.

"Olympea", in spite of being also a heroine in the spot, is the contrary face of the coin; Her confidence is in her sensuality when she is walking, her form to look to the camera knows that with only a sputtering the same statues turn to look it and all are to his feet, her value doesn't come of the battle, but she has  feminine power. Again, pink juice, with predominant vanilla, jasmine and flower of ginger, topped by a round jar decorated with leaves of laurel.

If you notice, both are scents, but is the own psychology of the consumer the one who separates them by gender, in addition to a clear influence of European culture. I ask me, that would happen, if the warrior of Invictus, presented the scent of Olympea. It would be a best-seller? Why the men can not carry delicate and floral notes?

In the Asian market, the scents of intense smell are not very received and a clear bestseller for knight is Jardin du Monsieur Li or a Jardin south him Nil of Hermès, both, with a floral bottom remarkable citrus. In it orient it happens the contrary case, and the women show his sensuality through smoke notes and intense, how the wood of agar and the amber, how much more intense smell, better. This is the art of the sensuality in orient half.

Reason whereby the market niche of perfumery niche/luxury is opening and taking weight, is because on the contrary that in the commercial perfumery, there is absence of rules; everything is for all the world, know free to put you what define you to you. Combine it how want to, combine with the scents that you fancy, know creative and especially, amuse you. The can that a scent speak on you would have to be amused, and this entertainment does not separate between masculine or feminine entertainment.

One of the comments that more have received by part of friends is that always I perfume me too much and that "smell to male" (live my addiction to the sandal and to all what smell to smoke.)

I always answer that I do not smell to male, smell to be able to, to determination, to authority, and to feminine sensuality. I do not smell to male, smell to me. And that is precisely the message that sign of luxury like Penhaligons London, Jo Malone, Éditions of Parfum Frederic Malle and Byredo want to transmit. That the perfumery would not have to understand of gender, but of expression, that there isn't man or woman, there are personalities and cultures and that, avoiding the rules, is like the consumers, and professional, can truly enjoy of the art of the modern perfumery.

About the author
Andrea Villar

Andrea Villar

Partner Olfactived

Andrea Villar has been able to purchase her knowledges about marketing and brand management working in brands like Hermès, Kilian Paris and Frederic Malle. One year ago, she noticed the difficulties of implantation in the Iberian Peninsula by part of the signatures of niche founds Olfactived. Olfactived is a consulting devoted to perfumery and cosmetic of luxury focused in marketing, communication, branding and export of product especially in the French markets and Swiss. In his profile of Instagram (@itsandyvillar) analyses the world of the perfumery and is a young promise of the sector.
See all author's articles