The eighth edition of the Beauty Innovation Days served to bring the more than 250 professionals from the cosmetics sector closer to the latest innovations and shed light on what the future holds and what will be a trend in the formulation and creation of cosmetic products.
Ingredients and active cosmetics
Amitahc, in this eighth edition, presented its latest active ingredient KAFFAGE. KAFFAGE is an innovative amphiphilic biopolymer derived from recycled by-products of defatted coffee. It is rich in polyphenols and offers exceptional multifunctional benefits: remarkable antioxidant activity, SPF boosting ability and emulsifying/thickening properties. Available in two shades, natural brown and yellow-brown, it effortlessly mimics various skin tones, reducing reliance on conventional colour compounds such as iron oxides. Its inherent antimicrobial properties make it ideal for preservative-free formulations. In vitro studies demonstrate KAFFAGE®'s ability to preserve collagen and elastin, preventing UV-induced glycation. Clinical tests show an improvement in expression lines and an increase in skin hydration. Thanks to its great versatility and benefits, KAFFAGE® can be used in a wide range of applications: from skin care to active make-up.
Eurofragance introduced the new Carrizo diffuser format to create a more sustainable product. Eurofragance saw the opportunity to create water-based solutions for Carrizo diffusers. The main challenge of the proposal, as the company explains, was to create a product with the right technical and olfactory performance, equivalent to the current products on the market.
Following with the ingredients, Inquiaroma, presented SAGACIOUS,After 7 years of research and inspired by the behaviour of plants in space, BiotechMarine has developed this biomimetic natural anti-wrinkle ingredient obtained through a new eco-friendly process patented by Seppic, called "Coeur d'algue". This is the first time that glycolipids have been isolated from organic brown algae in a minimal number of steps. Clinical trials with SAGACIOUS™ have shown that the skin becomes 8 times firmer than with placebo and that the visibility of nasolabial folds decreases by 7.1%. SAGACIOUS™ effectively counteracts the effects of gravity that leads to sagging.
Lipotrue has also created an ingredient that meets the latest consumer demands. COL-4-FRAG is a sustainable and biomimetic human collagen type IV fragment produced in wild plants by vertical farming that meets all these requirements, acting on the collagen type IV network by intervening in its synthesis and anchoring. It helps to form more interdigitations at the dermal-epidermal junction, promoting nutrition and firmness of the dermis and epidermis. The efficacy of this collagen fragment is proven on the neck and décolleté, so that the visible results are a neck and décolleté with fewer wrinkles and dark spots.
Merck at Beauty Innovation Days presented RonaFlair® Infinity. In this asset the pure alumina substrate is aligned in a very unique mesoporous multilayer structure with a specific morphology to achieve maximum transparency and porosity. The individual layers have a different refractive index, so incoming light is partially transmitted through the substrate layers and scattered, resulting in a soft and diffuse focusing effect of the light and an immediate optical reduction of wrinkles. Key features include transparency: almost no colour impact even at high concentrations, ideal for all skin tones. Soft focus: immediate anti-wrinkle effect, smoothes fine lines. Helps oil to be absorbed efficiently and its mattifying effect makes it ideal for oily skin. Helps prevent flashback effects, i.e. it eliminates unwanted whitish shine that can appear on the skin in photos. It is a natural and mineral ingredient, which is perfectly suited to the needs of sensitive skin.
Packaging And other services of the cosmetic industry
Dermaclaim also took on the role of warning of the importance of carrying out in vitro and invivo tests. Dermaclaim stresses that in vitro tests are invaluable for understanding the biological mechanisms underlying the effects of a cosmetic product, as they allow researchers to explore the interactions between active ingredients and cells at a fundamental level. In vivo studies, on the other hand, bridge the gap between laboratory findings and real-world application, demonstrating their effects on human volunteers and ensuring that they meet consumer expectations. Innovative techniques to corroborate efficacy claims are fundamental to the evolution of the cosmetics industry, such as 3D skin topography, 2D colorimetric image analysis, myotonometry, skin ultrasound, thermography, gene expression assessments, proteomic techniques, immunofluorescence, deep sequencing, etc.
Envaselia also presented its innovation, in this case in terms of packaging. It is a revolutionary element that combines artistic components to redefine the personal care experience. It is characterised by functionality combined with aesthetics and sustainability. It has been meticulously designed, from the structure to the non-drip valve, each element guarantees a user experience that exceeds expectations. The screw cap, with a non-drip dispensing system, certifies a precise and residue-free application. The company thus exposed during the Beauty Cluster event that its commitment to sustainability extends beyond the present, using 100% recyclable materials, reducing the carbon footprint and optimising weight.