If last year the ingredients that seduced the consumer were retinol, bakuchiol or hyaluronic acid, this year we will hear a lot about ectoin. As cosmetics media report, ectoin stands out mainly because of its applications in the cosmetics sector. As an article published by the Anglo-Saxon media 'Cosmetics Business' indicates, #Ectoin has already managed to exceed 42 million visits on TikTok and global searches on Google shot up by 123% in the last quarter of 2023. This ingredient protects human cells from allergens, heat, dryness and UV light. It improves skin hydration, prevents water loss from epidermal cells and improves the skin's protective barrier, protecting against external factors such as UV light.
But what exactly is this ingredient we've been hearing about for the past few months? Ectoin is an amino acid that is extracted from microorganisms and is set to become trendy and added to various Skincare formulas. This natural compound is produced by single-celled bacteria that protect micro-organisms living in more hostile environments and its properties make it an interesting cosmetic ingredient. Ectoin is moisturising, soothing, anti-inflammatory and has regenerative properties. It also helps strengthen the skin's barrier function and reduces water loss from the epidermis and evens skin tone. Ectoin protects micro-organisms from extreme situations and climates such as deserts, glaciers or other adverse weather conditions.
Ectoin is of cosmetic interest because it is able to act as a cell protector and stabiliser, and plays a role in boosting cellular hydration and protecting against UV irradiation. The list of functions performed by this micro-organism is long and ranges from reinforcing the skin barrier, to helping to reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL), to offering super-moisturising properties, to mitigating the effects of photo-ageing. Ectoin has also attracted the attention of cosmetic brands and industry looking for microbiome-friendly formulations. Thanks to its list of protective attributes, which have been shown to transfer to use in cosmetics, it appears to be the ultimate skin-friendly active ingredient.
This amino acid has been shown to have exceptional properties to protect the skin barrier when it is compromised by the use of harsh surfactants, extreme cold or heat, the ageing process or UV exposure. In vivo research has shown that Ectoin has a high water binding capacity and greater efficacy in maintaining skin hydration than glycerol-based moisturisers. In addition, Ectoin demonstrates a long-term moisturising capacity.