María Cedrán of Mentactiva shared during the Green Beauty Congress the keys of one of the upward trends in these moments in the world beauty, as it is the cosmetic 'waterless'. Thanks to her, we could know the tools, and also the limitations that frame in the the formulation anhidra and natural. It aimed some interesting data: if we speak in growth of market, according to the last studies, will grow more than 10% so much in on-line market, as off-line. On the other hand, emphasized the importance to follow investigating in this tendency, as well as also continue forming to renew and as no, test, test and test.
Everything on the tendency 'waterless'
The first point in which it centred María Cedrán was in exposing to the public the main reason of this tendency and reason is so important that all turn surroundings to the saving of the water in this type of formulations: "The water is a very scarce and more in the stage where have present the climatic change, that has gone growing last years. Second, have the concept of stress hydrous, that is the difference between the availability and the request of water. Finally, it is necessary to take into account the aims of sustainable development, in which it is necessary to guarantee the availability of water and a sustainable management of clean water and saneamiento for all."
In the world of the cosmetic, and one of the pillars that turns surroundings to the tendecia waterless is the footprint hídrica. Of the hand of this footprint hydrous, of a sustainable society that will look for that the quantity of water of his cosmetics was the minimum possible, and that the water will be considered a new luxury in the next years, opens hollow in the sector the solid cosmetic. This solid cosmetic goes closely related with the formulation anhidra, since as it argued Cedrán, the majority of solid cosmetics can formulate of way anhidra.
The advantages of this tendency 'waterless' enumerated them María Cedrán: "we go to add fewer preservatives, go to use less packaging, are products much more practical to travel." In addition to this, Cedrán shared the ingredients that can be used to employ this type of formulation anhidra, and the true is that there is a long list to be able to make this type of respectful cosmetic with the environment: waxes, lards, oils, dusts like main ingredients or the basic that has to incorporate in the base, and on the other hand, polialcoholes, alcohols grasos, esters grasos, sour grasos or tensioactivos in dusts to improve the formula or do it newer.
Tendencies associated
María Cedrán signalled other tendencies that relate with this cosmetic anhidra: minimalism, solid cosmetic (as we already have quoted previously) and the upcycled. "Regarding the minimalism, refer us to the packaging and to that the products will require fewer preservatives. It will not be necessary to use them, the tendency will be few ingredients, very chosen and play with the percentages. Regarding the packaging, surely, the secondary packaging, in the next years, no longer will exist. The concept of upcycled goes in relation to the circular economies, to the reuse of waste or of by-products of other industries, as for example the vegetal oils and the dusts."
The limitations of the formulation 'waterless'
"So that our formula was 'waterless' will not be able to formulate solutions of aqueous base, emulsions, geles in basic water, like hidrogeles and bars of basic water. What himself will be able to formulate in base to this concept will be: solutions, suspensions, pastes, bars, dusts, geles and tablets."
Later, María Cedrán specified the characteristics and ingredients as well as his functionalities that have to have the formulations so that they are considered anhidras.
"The limitations of these formulations anhidras is that the majority of these vegetal extracts are soluble in aqueous vehicles or hidrogliterinados and that when having more ingredients of vegetal origin can oxidar with more ease."