The future of natural ingredients in fragrances and cosmetics in the Council of the European Union

AEFAA has been working throughout the year with associations and institutions to persuade the European Council to reconsider its decision

12 of July of 2023
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essentials oils
essentials oils

The Council of the European Union has taken a decision to adopt a proposal supporting the future of natural ingredients used in perfumes and cosmetic products.

This resolution has been welcomed by organisations such as IFRA (International Fragrance Association), Cosmetics Europe and AEFAA (Association for Food Fragrances and Aromas). AEFAA argues that essential oils are complex natural substances known as NSC (Natural Complex Substances), in contrast to the new CLP classification which considers them as MOCS (More than One Component). AEFAA warns that this classification represents a threat to the entire value chain of essential oils, as their demand could be drastically reduced by suggesting that they pose a health risk. In addition, this would require new evaluation processes, without taking into account the studies carried out in the last 10 years under the REACH registration, and would force a change in the labelling of products, resulting in high associated costs.

The Council asks the Commission to prepare a report, four years after the entry into force of the CLP Regulation, which could be accompanied by a new legislative proposal for these substances.

In defence of essential oils, AEFAA stresses that they are volatile aromatic compounds obtained through physical processes, such as steam distillation of aromatic plants. They are complex natural substances, as they are composed of several molecules that originate naturally in plants. They add that essential oils undergo rigorous safety assessments to ensure the highest quality standards for consumers.

Like part of the Platform of Defence of the Essential Oils in Spain, AEFAA has been collaborating during all the year with associations and institutions to persuade to the European Council to reconsider his decision on the MOCS. This platform includes to Stanpa (National Association of Perfumery and Cosmetic), Ailimpo (Association Interprofesional of Lemon and Grapefruit), AMAF (Mediterranean Association of Aromas and Scents), Anipam (National Association Interprofesional of Aromatic and Medicinal Plants) and EFEO (European Federation of Essential Oils).

Spain is a world leader in the production of essential oils such as lemon, lavender, lavandin, rockrose, rosemary and thyme. According to AEFAA, the area under cultivation of essential oils in our country covers more than 72,000 hectares, with a production of more than 1,300 tonnes, generating income of 34.5 million euros and more than 25,000 indirect jobs.

Essential oils of rose, bergamot, lemon, thyme and others are grown throughout Europe, with countries such as France, Italy, Bulgaria, Poland, Greece, Portugal and Ireland also important in this industry.