The 'key points' on regulation in the sector in the second 'Beauty Business Talks'

Last Friday, January 20, 'Next In Beauty' with the collaboration of the Beauty Cluster held the second edition of its 'Beauty Business Talks'. The round table addressed one of the subjects that more uncertainty and worry generates in the industry: the regulatory changes and how adapt to them. With more than 400 inscribed, and more than 280 users connected simultaneously, this new installment initiated to the 10 am. The debate had the assistance of great speakers: Germán Castillo (Managing Director of AEFAA), Ana Rocamora (Co-Founder and Director of CosmeticsinMind), Mercè Camps (CEO in Technical Cabinet Chemist M.Camps), Carmen Esteban (Consulting and Tecnico-regulatory skilled in Cosmetic), Diana Chillón (Sustainability Advocacy Specialist of BASF) and Celia Campos (Technical Director and CEO of Muttulab) were the components of the excellent space of moderate debate by Iván Borrego (General Manager of the Beauty Cluster).Advance is the best strategyWith a 2023 take on changes, the professionals coincide in the importance that anticipate to these changes, stay informed in this regard and be to the day is fundamental in matter of regulation. Mercè Camps, took the floor and exposed the current situation that is going throught the sector: "We are joined by many issues that obliges us to be with the antenna on so as not to lose you and not have problems of non-compliance." Germán Castillo did not want to downplay other variables which influence like the inflation and the development of the digitalisation "In addition to regulation, economic problems and artificial intelligence are also a risk. Everything is transcribed in the regulatory world that limits the consumer, the worker and everything that surrounds us." Celia Campos, for her part, stressed that the speed that we perceive in regulation adapts to the pace in which society changes: "It's a reflection of the society. Every time it goes faster because the society every time advances faster. The beginnings of century are like this, the world changes fast and is well that the regulation change to the same rhythm that the world, because but would be in a desfase."Coherent regulation?In second instance, Ivan asked to the members of the round table whether coherent policy and management is currently under way. All, agreed that speed is not the right one and stressed the importance of necessary consumer education. "It is a very swift change. It does with overprotectivism to the consumer and to the Europeans.We don't educate on sustainability. They create future regulations very powerful on the sustainable products, but before is necessary to educate to the consumer on the concepts that regulate . You can't go to a shop and don't know what's mean the echo-label... It is well what is happening but also is bad by to the speed and the protectionism. There aren't economic tools, personal fault in the companies, organisations, ministries and public entities. If we braked the speed would have a lot of more coherence and basis", explained the Managing Director of AEFAA, Germán Castillo. With regard to this training that commented Castle, the consulting Carmen Esteban indicated that "there is no point in legislating if the consumer has no knowledge", and that the authorities have to do manager of this subject. "We consider that the consumer is not yet sufficiently adult", sentenced Carmen Esteban.For her part, Mercè Camps stood out that it is necessary a base, rigour and training. Diana Chillón, noted, that owing to the speed of the reglamentation, "loses the focus of which will be the consequences."Is the role of industry correct?Iván launched a third question to the assistants of the table to know which was his opinion with regard to the paper that is exerting the industry. Diana Chillón of BASF wanted to appreciate the program created by 'Next In Beauty' and the Beauty Cluster, and signalled that lacking proactivity and action by part of the sector, something that Celia Campos also supported. Ana Rocamora, wanted to take advantage of her turn of word to expose the situation that live the SMEs in this sense: "a big part of the cosmetic industry are SMEs the time that have these companies and the capacities are different, for example there are few personnel in this position. Also, we have difficulty in time for active participation. The big companies do have that responsibility as BASF and they already do, because they have the economic means to do so. We should see that this partnership does not generate this inequality and does not pass as the pharmaceutical industry where only large companies can survive." Mercè Camps, explained that it is very important form part of associations that help to know at first hand the changes and that allow you connect with professionals: "it Is important to belong to forums like the Cosmetorium, join to the Beauty Cluster… The information with the other will carry us to understand like industry the regulation, and later apply it well." With regard to this last, Carmen Esteban added that: "When you are a SME and you do not have resources have the possibility to associate you to the entity that you want like AEFAA, Beauty Cluster, Stanpa… If you do not have somebody of the regulatory personal is the alternative to group you and find to who can throw you a hand". To finalise, Germán Castillo, indicated, that in occasions, the associations have the feeling that have to "play the role policemen".Plastic taxDefinitely, something that has upset and a lot to the sector has been the tax on the no reusable plastic in 2023.This new tax is a concern for packaging suppliers for the cosmetics industry and came into force on 1 January and involves a cost of 0.45 euros per kilogram of plastic.Celia Campos of Muttulab affirms that this tax is seen by the companies as an additional expense: "Companies have to do numbers with this tax. I doubt the success of this regulation for the purpose it pursues. For me, it is a little bittersweet, it is a new regulation that does not help us to adapt to changes and will be ineffective. I think it doesn't meet the ultimate goal of changing the corporate culture." Ana Rocamora also offered her point of view: "This plastic tax comes by an issue of political prominence that is within the 2030 goal. As we are in 2023, we must force the industry to look for other solutions. The only thing that is going to be achieved now is a collection." Ensured the founder of CosmeticsinMind.Amendment of the cosmetic regulationTo continue with the development of the round table, Iván Borrego, incorporated a new subject to the debate: the current situation of the regulations of cosmetics, as well as the impact that can generate and the changes that these comport: "it is another example that shows the need of to anticipate us", explained Carmen Esteban, "there are transversal subjects that will include in the regulation. There are a lot of sectors where the concept of a substance a regulation is important. It is necessary to change the system of labeling of cosmetic products. Right now, in cosmetic the labeling is very rigid and CLP is working in this sense. The transversality is fundamental and that we know that in the regulation of ingredients where there will be a greater impact we will have to open the vision and be very in line with the classifications of CLP. From my point of view that will be the most relevant." With regard to labelling, Ana Rocamora has said that this is something that should have been changed a long time ago. "About the labeling does a lot that it would have to change. The evaluation of the chemical will do that a lot of substances leave to use and who know what other limitations will have. The information is vital and it is useful to us to know what to wear."The list of allergens continues to increaseThe extension of the list of allergens presented in a draft in September to the European Commission proposed adding up to 81 sensitising substances. During the first half of this year, the list is expected to be incorporated into Annex III of the European cosmetic regulation.Ana Rocamora, warns of the following and ensures that the new technologies and the IA can turn into big allied: "Any substance can be allergen. The new technologies and the IA can help us a lot because if it uses of the suitable way, can do that any person have access to a 'big date' to know if they can use this product according to their medical index card to know if it can use it according to their allergies. It will be an useful way and of immediate way for the consumer."Celia Campos alerted of the problematic that it can arise around the products of natural origin: "This regulation doesn't help to the progress, because we go to tend to stigmatise. The labeling of the natural products now will be a spice of bible. The essential oils will have a giant list, and this, will not help to the consumer and will do that we lose the focus of what really need." Germán Castle, shared this point of view: "será very complex as it says Celia. We are mounting an app of IA for alergenos and have done a budget of the costs of documentary management and the costs rise between 20.000 and 80.000. There will be a period of transition from among 2-3 years to take out products of the linear that are not properly labelings" added the Managing Director of AEFAA.Concern about solar filtersThe protective solar also had it space in the debate celebrated last Friday and is something that causes worry to all the speakers that assisted to the 'Beauty Business Talks': Diana Chillón of BASF highlighted that it is a subject that an issue that should receive special attention since human health is in question. "We are concerned about the issue of sunscreens, because it is the element to combat skin cancer and is essential in human health. The regulation wants to modify the inclusion of new hazards within the prohibition of certain substances and here we can see the effectiveness and commercialization of sunscreen. You have to pay a lot of attention because we are talking about health. You have to discuss it, know it and raise your voice to whom you have to raise it. It will certainly affect the effectiveness and efficiency of sunscreens. Either you stop selling them, which is the least likely, or you sell them less effectively. In terms of business sales will continue, but in terms of health we will be regressing" concluded the Sustainability Advocacy Specialist of BASF.Mercè Camps also showed her restlessness in this regard: "the solar filters are very important in the health and are effective. It gives me fear that begin to restrict them. If we have products that are not effective will be an important problem." Celia Campos highlighted the transcendence to work jointly: "We must have common goals and common directions. We must attack the problem as it is: an issue that affects human health. It's very difficult to find and release new filters. It's getting harder with the new regulations. the key move in the chess game. We must invite the value chain to participate in the process and have good solutions that will ensure sales for much longer."Proactivity will mark the futureAfter 12 o'clock and in a debate that left the virtual assistants wanting more, the round table concluded with special emphasis on the lack of training and the essentiality of the importance that is a cosmetic and its lack of conception. Like main conclusions, Carmen Esteban indicated that it was necessary "to insist in the proactivity, be constantly informed and anticipate us to the regulation." Diana, continued on line with what had transmitted Carmen: "Proactivity. It is necessary to be slopes of the transversality and be in communication with the associations and support them to give them more voice." "I highlight the be attentive constantly. Inside the companies regulatory is strategic today in dia and it is necessary to be attentive to what comes. Collaboration with associations, be in all what moves . Go back to highlight what can do the associations to see what can do in matter of training of the consumer" move like main conclusion Ana Rocamora.Germán emphasized in the relation between regulation, sustainability and digitalisation. "The regulation, department of sustainability and digitalisation have to go of the hand. To be to the day the departments have to have time and personal. It is necessary digitalize and automate processes so that it can be to the day and be where it is necessary to be." Celia Campos added to the previously said that it is necessary to modify the business culture: "The only form to be ready is to change the culture inside the company. Regulatory And Compliance has to be in a part of the company that contributes value inside the company."

The 'key points' on regulation in the sector in the second 'Beauty Business Talks'

Proactivity, the role of the industry, solar filters, and the tax on plastic were some of the topics that were discussed during the 'BBT'