On the occasion of the arrival of In-Cosmetics in its new edition in Paris, Next in Beauty was able to interview Nikola Matic. Matic is Vice President of Kline Chemicals and, since 2012, he heads the syndicated business of Kline's Chemicals and Materials division. While managing flagship titles such as Personal Care Ingredients, Ingredients for HI&I Cleaning Applications, or Pharmaceutical Excipients, he has also designed new titles for the practice such as Biologics, Solubility Enhancement, or Actives for Nutraceuticals. In addition to his responsibilities with Kline's syndicated services, Nikola has been involved as a market expert in numerous in-house assignments related to his areas of expertise. Prior to joining Kline, Nikola worked in environmental services consultancy and was responsible for business development in CEE.
With Matic, we talked about the future of the cosmetics industry, digitalisation and the impact of artificial intelligence and how trends and sustainability influence the sector.
- Can you explain to readers in Spain and the Spanish cosmetics sector what Kline is and what is its core business and focus?
Kline, a market research and consulting firm, combines industry expertise with technology to deliver highly predictive and actionable data, insights and expert advice. We are recognised as "the industry experts" and have a reputation for providing the best data and advisory services for several specific industry segments: lubricants and speciality oil, professional beauty and speciality chemicals. Within speciality chemicals, personal care ingredients have been the focus for decades.
- What are currently the main trends in active ingredients and formulations in the cosmetics sector?
Undoubtedly, the predominant force in today's market is still megatrend green or natural. In the field of ingredients, competitively priced and technologically mature natural alternatives are emerging. This natural inclination is progressively being integrated into an overall sustainability strategy within the cosmetics industry. In addition, cosmetic formulators have recently focused on the efficacy and speed of action of active ingredients.
- How does chemical innovation influence the development of new cosmetic products?
Over the years, chemical suppliers have introduced a plethora of new molecules to the market. From conventional chemically synthesised molecules to innovative biochemical processes, various technologies have enabled the commercialisation of new personal care ingredients. These advances have enabled formulators to develop novel products and innovative claims. However, in the last decade, innovation has shifted away from an exclusive focus on chemistry. Instead, there has been a notable emphasis on research to elucidate the mode of action of molecules on the consumer's skin or hair.new cosmetic products?
- Where does Europe stand in terms of innovation in the cosmetics sector?
Europe has traditionally been at the forefront of innovation in cosmetics, particularly in terms of raw materials.
- What are the next big innovations or changes you expect to see in the cosmetics sector in terms of ingredients?
It is difficult to predict, as I expect a slow evolution rather than a revolution in the coming years, but if we look at some of the trends driving the market today, these developments are likely to be in areas such as the skin microbiome, neurocosmetics and sustainability.
- What are the next big innovations or changes you expect to see in the cosmetics sector in terms of ingredients?
Of course, most of the growth is coming from Asia, although the upturn in the Chinese market has been slower than expected.
- One of the trends that will stand out in 2024 is women's wellbeing and health from a holistic approach, what else can you tell us?
The concept of welfare exists for many years and has adopted different forms. Lately it has translated especially in the tendency of the welfare more than in the one of the antienvejecimiento. The products of personal care have happened to form part of an approach holístico of the welfare and does not fit doubt that this tendency goes to continue.
- Can you tell us more about ectoin? In the reports of some trend and market agencies they talk about this fabulous ingredient?
Ectoin has a compelling combination of attributes: it comes from a natural source, boasts proven efficacy, offers multi-functionality and has a potentially compelling marketing narrative. It therefore has many of the qualities essential to the success of an active ingredient. However, given the competition in the cosmetic market, its success will depend on consumer recognition and demand.
- How do sustainability and environmental concerns influence the selection of ingredients and manufacturing processes in the cosmetics industry?
As mentioned above, sustainability is a key concern in the sector, with key brands pioneering and elevating the entire industry.
- How is digital technology (such as artificial intelligence and augmented reality) changing the way cosmetic products are researched and promoted?
These technologies are certainly going to be key, especially in terms of consumer experience, and will help consumers make the right choice for their products. In turn, I believe this will bring more individualisation of formulations, which will create opportunities for ingredients.
- How is formulation technology advancing to improve the delivery of active ingredients in cosmetic products?
The development of delivery systems for active ingredients and new active ingredients often occurs in parallel. Enabling the delivery of unstable compounds or targeting specific areas of the skin are crucial features of these delivery systems. This is a market segment that we analysed extensively in a report we published last year.